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Olympic Mountain Dreams day 4

Friday, October 13th, 2017

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 4 - Small little waterfall

It was a lovely morning and tempting to spend another day in the Olympic’s, but it is a fairly long and rough road home. I didn’t want to just repeat the route I took here, so my return trip was going to go south and east to Bremerton and the ferry to Seattle. Thus I’ll have done a nice Hood Canal Loop in the course of this short tour. Since I didn’t have too far to ride on this day I enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and time by the Dosewallips before I set out.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 4 - Dosewallips Falls detail

When I rode up to the campground I was chasing daylight so I didn’t linger. Well on my trip out I took the opportunity to checkout the several waterfalls, explore the Elkhorn campground, take little side trails and of course capture plenty of images. The trail being mostly downhill as well as not trying to push through as quickly as I could meant it wasn’t nearly as exhausting as the trip in had been.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 4 - The "road" is basically just a trail up here.

There were numerous other hikers returning on this day, it being the end of the weekend and all. But also as I got closer to the trailhead I encountered numerous mountain bikers just out to ride the on the old road. They still had to get past the first two (and in some cases third) major washouts but I suppose pushing a mountain bike when you only have a daypack isn’t nearly so hard. But as a there-and-back route it didn’t strike me as that exciting of a mountain bike route. Beautiful scenery of course, but not very technical.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 4 - Beautiful little waterfall in the woods

There were two little waterfalls just off the trail that were well worth parking the bicycle and tramping off to see. This one, with it’s two free falling sections cascading down moss covered rocks was especially lovely. There is a hike off of the road to Lake Constance that is two miles in length but gains 3300 feet! It is mostly a scramble up a riverbed and I image it is like the terrain below this waterfall.  But once you get up there, there is a hike in campground with only six sites.  Would love to get up there sometime for an even more secluded Olympics experience.  A lot more to do up here; I will be back

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 4 - Ob. NFE in the National Park

The other campground along the road, Elkhorn, features numerous sites on the river, but also a set of sites in the woods.  It seemed even more overgrown than Dosewallips Campground, perhaps it is less visited as it is pretty close in.  Just past it is the other end of the major washout. I walked down to the end of that and found that there is basically a short drop-off that one could scramble up with the help of a fixed rope, but it would have been impossible to get the loaded touring bicycle up. Glad I hadn’t tried that route.  I backtracked and once again took the steep switchbacks above the washout.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 4 - Looking north from the big washout

Most of the way down the other side of the washout I took another little side trail that give you a good overview of the washout. You can see from the above picture that basically the whole riverside just sloughed off. No sign that a road had ever been there.  From this point on it was an easy ride back to the trailhead, which of course was the first washout but wasn’t nearly so hard to bypass.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 4 - Looking west up the Dosewallips

This day had dawned cool and overcast, but it had pretty well cleared up. But clouds and mists kept pouring over the hills and like the day before I was sure that it would cloud up again toward evening.  But as I rode out of the National Forest on Dosewallips River Road it became increasingly clear.  By the time I reached Brinnon and returned to Highway 101 it was blue skies with big pillow like white clouds.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 4 - The Dosewallips makes it to Hood Canal

It was near lunchtime now and I pulled of at Dosewallips State Park and in the day use area had lunch. The park was right at the end of the Dosewallips River where it flowed into Hood Canal.  The wind had picked up blowing the big clouds around.  My route on 101 would wend along Hood Canal, always going up and down, with small little tourist areas in the rare flat spots.  It being the end of the weekend and all these spots were jammed with people trying to get in a last bit of recreation on their way home.  There was a line out the door at the Hoodsport Coffee Company and I’ve never seen so many people at the Union General Store.  Both times I would have stopped at those places for a break, but just too long of lines.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 4 - Summer clouds hovering over Hood Canal

I was going to camp at Twanoh State Park, which has a very limited Hiker/Biker area but I figured Sunday evening wouldn’t be too bad.  There was a stiff wind heading East on SR106 and I was feeling the end of the day.  When I got to Twaoh there was  tent in the h/b area but no sign of it’s occupant. I’ve shared the space before so I went into the campground proper to register.  They thought it was “full” but checked their records and found that no-one was registered for tonight. This was good as the main campground was full.  I mentioned there was the tent there and they sent a couple of junior rangers down to check it out.  When we got their I began to setup and they investigated the tent.  They kind of ripped it open and reported not much inside. They said it looked abandoned and headed out.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 4 - Sunset over Hood Canal

I finished setting up and had begun to cook dinner when the tent’s occupant arrived on a folding bicycle. He said “hi” and sat down to eat some take out food.  A bit later he checked out the tent and asked me if I’d seen anybody messing with it. I mentioned the rangers had been looking in it.  He said “Well they basically destroyed it!”. He had a beer and then set out. I ate dinner and washed up and went out to watch the sunset over Hood Canal.  I heard raised voices from camp and the ranger was there trying to talk with the guy. He accused them of destroying his tent and got pretty shirty.  There was some words from the ranger, basically noting that he wasn’t actually paid up and shouldn’t be there and such and eventually he left.  I was sitting in my tent a bit later when he retuned and squatting down at my tent entrance asked me to verify the guys story. I confirmed that the junior rangers had inspected the tent but I didn’t see them rip into it or anything.  He asked if I felt safe with the guy there. I said he seemed okay and I didn’t mind that he was there.  The ranger went and gave the guy some duct tape so he could do some field repairs and then left. The evening ended uneventfully. The guy repaired his tent the best he could and retired as did I.

Photos from this day: Olympic Mountain Dreams day 4
All photos from this tour: Olympic Mountain Dreams

Posted from Union, Washington, United States.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 3

Friday, September 1st, 2017

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 3 - Water through the moss

patches of moonlight
wavering through branches —
watering an ancient tree

I awoke a few times through night to an exultation of stars peeking through the canopy and very late a thin moon made it over the valley walls. After a my nights sleep with the ever present white noise of the river, I woke to a grey morning with mist streaming down the valley walls.  Over the course of a morning spent in contemplation down by the river and making breakfast in camp, the mist burned off to mostly clear blue skies. While I was breaking my fast a volunteer ranger came by and gave me the skinny on day hikes in the area. He also let me know that most of those washouts I had to clamber over one the way here were from this year.  It had been the rainiest winter on record in Washington State and it brought down a lot of rocks.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 3 - Crossing Station Creek

I lingered in camp until after lunch and then hoisting my daypack I set out to checkout the local trails.  Past the campground is the old ranger station and then past that begins the trails.  There is a the remnants of an old nature trail which does the traditional loop, with a branch off of it into the broader trail network.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 3 - Money Changers in the temple

The trail heads off up the river valley to the Dose Forks campground. This is a true backpackers campground, a few miles from the Dosewallips Campground, which was the furthest in you could have driven back before the washouts.  There were a few people camping at Dose Forks though I didn’t seen any of them there.  I was continuing up to what the ranger had described as the High Bridge at the West and North Forks of the Dosewallips.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 3 - Wasp

Between the two campgrounds I was up the valley walls a ways and primarily hiking in the woods.  There were numerous creeks to cross — Station Creek, Pass Creek and named trickles — but I was far enough away from the Dosewallips that it was only a very distant rushing sound.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 3 - Looking back

At Dose Forks Campground I was back right on the river and had to cross it to continue on the the High Bridge.  The character of the hike there was subtly different.  It was more rocky and I was clearly on a sort of spit of land between the two forks of the river.  There were a couple more little stream crossings which the trail often descended to cross and then had to climb back out.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 3 - Flowing water

This part of the Olympic National Park, cut off from the car campgrounds, seems to be slowly returning to nature.  Rangers have to hike anything in and the old car campgrounds are slowly deteriorating.  Nobody is going be be packing in a replacement picnic table!  Out here though it is the trail crews that keep falling logs off the trails, bridges from collapsing and the trails generally clear.  Past the high bridge there are trails deep into the Olympics and it hooks up to the cross park — and state! — Pacific NW Trail.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 3 - High Bridge

There was sign of these trail keepers all through these hikes, cut logs, repaired bridges and general trail clearing.  This corner of the park feels pretty abandoned. I’m sure it was never was the draw that the Hoh, Hurricane Ridge, Lake Quinault etc have been, but with no car camping now, it feels pretty remote.  The High Bridge is well named, a solid wood bridge on a rocky promontory crossing the West Fork of the Dosewallips.  Looking east you can just see where the North Fork cascades in and merges with the West Fork.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 3 - North and West Forks of the Dosewallips River

I spent some time on the bridge and around the branching trails just past it. I rested, ate a sandwich and just existed.  A wind had picked up and there were ragged trails of cloud reaching into the piercing blue sky. I just sat and listened for a spell until finally I retraced my steps back to camp.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 3 - Blue skies over green valley walls

the tiger swallowtail
returns again and again
dancing over flowing water

&nbsp
Photos from this day: Olympic Mountain Dreams day 3
All photos from this tour: Olympic Mountain Dreams

Posted from Brinnon, Washington, United States.

Olympic Mountain Dreams Day 2

Wednesday, August 30th, 2017
Olympic Mountain Dreams Day 2 - Onward into the woods

NFE in Olympic National Forest

out of the dense green canopy
the sound of a lively stream

I awoke to a sunny and clear day in the woods outside of Port Townsend.  On this day I planned to ride all the way to Dosewallips Campground in Olympic National Park but I also wanted to spend a little bit of time in Port Townsend. So I quickly packed up and rode down the Olympic Discovery Trail, through the marina and into downtown to my favorite PT coffee house: Better Living Through Coffee. There I enjoyed sumatra pour-over and broke my fast.  I had a few more errands I wanted to take care of and so I ended up staying in PT through lunch. It was nearly 1pm by the time I finally rode out of town.

Olympic Mountain Dreams Day 2 - Pirate Ship in Drydock

Clearly a pirate ship here in dry dock

I had about fifty miles to do this day, but this included a pretty long climb into the State Park and about 16 miles on trails, so I felt I was leaving pretty late.  It was also all backtracking for the first 15 miles (and then on pretty familiar roads) so I mostly just pedaled through it.  I couldn’t resist a quick stop at Finn River Cidery once I was back on Center Rd. I’ve ridden past them many a time but I’ve always been pushing through to PT and never stopped.  I figured on this day, with long summer nights and no riding planned for the next day, though I could spare the time.

Olympic Mountain Dreams Day 2 - Finn River view down Beaver Valley

The view from Finn River looking down Beaver Valley

I’m glad I stopped — good cider and a lovely locale with long views up Beaver Valley. But after leaving I knew I had it maintain a steady pace to get where I was going by nightfall.  The wind was with me as I rode down Beaver Valley and through the hillier section the lies beyond the intersection with 105.  There is a good climb up into hills above Quilcene followed by a long descent to the intersection with Hwy 101.  I stopped in Quilcene at the market there where I bought a Blackberry Ice Cream cone where they must have put near a pint of ice cream on it.

Olympic Mountain Dreams Day 2 - NFE at sea

NFE in Quilcene

The next stage was a stretch on Hwy 101 from Quilcene to Brinnon.  This includes crossing Walker Pass, which at 741′ barely qualifies as a pass climb, but it is a gap between Mount Walker and you do climb up for most of the five miles between it and Quilcene.  Once you descend there is a stretch along the coast a few ups and downs and then you come onto Brinnon.  Right before you cross the Doeswallips River is the turnoff to Dosewallips River Road, which begins my journey into the National Park.

Olympic Mountain Dreams Day 2 - Dosewallips River Valley

Dosewallips River Valley

It was stretching into late evening now and I was hoping that I could make this last 16 or so miles in relatively short order.  At first the road was paved and it climbed steeply nearly immediately. I was following the Dosewallips River, which was pretty active with sections of rapids, but also these beautiful coves and pools.  There were houses and then farms and what kind of appeared to be a cult compound before the paved road ended and became gravel.  I was in the National Forest now and after a mile or two the road ended at the washout.  There were a number of cars parked here for those hiking in to the campground, day hikers and dog walkers.

Olympic Mountain Dreams Day 2 - Dosewallips River road after a car has passed

Dosewallips River road after a car has passed

I walked the bicycle through this first washout and then it was just like the gravel road had continued on. The trees were a little closer and the road was less washboarded and of course there were no cars. So pretty nice.  Then I came to the second washout.  This one was as if an entire hillside had washed down into the Dosewallips River.  There was a goat path on it, clinging to loose rock on the hillside and also a path that steeply wound above it.  I park my bicycle and explored along the hillside route first.  That clearly became impossible to push  bicycle through so I returned and checked out the path above.  It had a series of switchbacks and was pretty steep but seemed passable.  So I pushed my bicycle up which I have to say was pretty difficult. At the top it was like I was on a hiking trail for a spell until it descended in a similarly steep set of switchbacks.  Then I was back on the gravel road.

Olympic Mountain Dreams Day 2 - Dosewallips Trail 2

Dosewallips Trail

Past the second washout the trail narrow and was a lot more overgrown. This was really great riding, as it was fairly flat, empty and yet deep in the woods near a rushing river.  There were several more rocky washouts, but these were small and I just had to dismount and pick my way over them.  But I was pretty tired and hungry now and ready to reach the campground.  When I came to the Elkhorn Campground, the first of two, I was really tempted to stop.  I gone a long way, it was right on the river and looked nice.  But since I planned to spend the next day exploring the area I knew that the Dosewallips Campground would be better and it was my destination after all. So I pressed on.

Olympic Mountain Dreams Day 2 - Further up Dosewallips Falls

Dosewallips Falls

The trail immediately began to climb at this point and was much closer to single track.  Apart from the multiple washouts and a couple of bridge crossings, it pretty much was uphill the rest of the way.  I could ride most of this, but I was pretty hard work.  There were numerous washouts, again usually of the big rocky types.  I passed a couple of hikers during this stretch, one couple commented they had passed me riding on the road a ways back. “I managed to catch up!”, I quipped.  The highlight of this stretch was Doswallips Falls, which was a rock falls with a short free fall section. The road alongside was super steep and there was an old sign informing vehicles that they shouldn’t stop on this section.  Apart from all the washouts it was pretty hard to imagine cars ever driving this road.  I had to push the bicycle up this section and I was pretty close to bonking. It was after 8pm and I was tired and hungry.  Happily it wasn’t too much further from the top of the falls and it was a flatter stretch with only a couple more washouts.

Olympic Mountain Dreams Day 2 - Dosewallips River Valley walls at sunset

Sun sets behind the valley walls

Finally I arrived at the campground which probably half a dozen of the sites — all along the river — were occupied. I pretty quickly settled into the last really viable site at the north edge of the park. The river was an all encompassing presence here and looking up above the trees, the high valley walls were golden with the magic hour light. I filtered water, cooked dinner and setup.  As I was about done for the day one of the hikers I passed on my way in stopped by and told me he had forgotten a key part of his water filter.  I was using my new gravity filter that I bought after my stint on the Sierra-Cascades where I found I needed to filter a lot of water so I was able to filter a gallon or so of water for him in short order.  It was fully dark now, so after he departed water bags in head I retired to the tent and a well earned nights sleep.

Photos from this day: Olympic Mountain Dreams day 2
All photos from this tour: Olympic Mountain Dreams

Posted from Brinnon, Washington, United States.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 1

Sunday, August 27th, 2017
Olympic Mountain Dreams day 1 - NFE on the stoop

NFE on the Stoop: Ready to Ride

a blue dragonfly
flies backwards down the path
watching

When a retreat that I was going to take part in fell through I suddenly found myself with five free days in mid July. Within a couple of days I worked out a trip I wanted to take that would maximally use those days and take me to a place I hadn’t been to before. I had found out that a road had washed out on the eastern side of Olympic National Park cutting off two campgrounds, but that you take your bicycle on the old road.  This was technically within a days ride, but would, I thought, be a pretty long hard day. I planned to ride to Dosewallips State Park, on hwy 101 which is around 20 miles from Dosewallips Campground, in the Olympic National Park.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 1 - Ferry terminal to BI

Ferry to Bainbridge Island coming in

My touring setup is pretty much set in stone these days, all kept in one bag in a closet. I can pull it out and be pretty much ready to tour within a couple of hours.  Buying and packing some food and selecting appropriate clothing is about the only variables not preset.  Of course I do have several options depending on length or type of tour and for this one, where I’d be camping and then day hiking in the woods, I adjusted things accordingly.  I swapped out my Rando bag for my basket and put on my old Baggins Hobo bag for the rear facing pockets.  This gave me enough space for the supplies needed for time in the woods.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 1 - In which we leave the city behind

In which we leave the city behind

I made it to the ferry terminal by 10am which is pretty good time for the first day of one of my tours.  But I had just missed a boat and when the next one came in there was a crew change and the hauling off of a dead motorcycle.  When we finally departed it was about a quarter to eleven.  I was in the cafe buying a coffee when the woman next to me in line asked: “Is this the bar?” It’s happy hour somewhere… At one point during the crossing the boat slowed and the engines stopped. There was an announcement over the PA for a crew member to come to ‘Fan Room 2’.  Was this going to one of those trips?

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 1 - Coming up on Bainbridge

Crossing the Puget Sound

As I made the crossing I contemplated my preparations and realized I had neglected to bring my headlamp.  That a bit of food I still needed sent me to the little town of Winslow on Bainbridge Island where I also was able to get lunch.  I found my forgotten supplies and proceeded to ride across the Island a bit after noon.  Now his route is one I’ve done several times: Bainbridge to the mainland via Hood Canal.  There are several options and several highways but of course the goal is to stay on backroads.  However right after crossing Agate Pass off of Bainbridge I failed to take a turn and thinking Google Maps had just put me on a different crossing of the Kitsap Peninsula I continued on the hwy.  As I came up on Pouslbo I knew I was off route but I also knew this busy road would get me where I was going. I peeked at Maps on my phone and found an alternative backroad option that I didn’t have to backtrack to.  This road, Big Valley Road, turned out to be just top drawer country riding.  Much flatter then the normal cross Kitsap route I’ve taken, but equally low traffic and scenic.  Nice.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 1 - Waiting on the bridge

Waiting on the Hood Canal Drawbridge

Big Valley Road intersected with Hwy 3 at Four Corners and from there it wasn’t too much further to Hood Canal Bridge. As I climbed up the last hill before I’d descend to the bridge, cars were backed up — the bridge must be open.  I was able to easily wend my way down to the bridge and along the nice shoulder all the way to the barriers.  The drawbridge was indeed up, but for no discernible reason.  There are long views both north and south of the bridge and there was no sign of any boats. Even when submarines come through here — which is often — there are jamming boats along with them.  So perhaps just some sort of test or safety check.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 1 - Clouds over the Canal

Dark clouds down south

There was a stiff wind blowing south, which happily was the direction I was going. But things were dark and forbidding that way whereas the wind was blowing the clouds away from the north.  Once the bridge finally opened I continued west, mainly on Hwy 104 but taking side roads when I could.  Once you climb up from Hood Canal to the north is Beaver Valley which I’ve ridden many time to and fro Port Townsend.  All the sudden I felt a pang of desire to go to Port Townsend. It was almost cold now under dark clouds and there was even the slightest of sprinkles.  As I crossed Center Road which goes north up Beaver Valley to Chimicum and then PT and South to Quilcene where it intersects with Hwy 101 I saw a handprinted mural that read 24 miles to Brinnon. Brinnon was just outside of Doswallips State Park, my destination.  PT on the other hand was 14 miles to the north up Beaver Valley.  To the south was Walker Pass (not an epic pass, but a couple mile climb) and dark menacing clouds.  To the north it was blue skies, easy valley riding and PT with restaurants and pubs.  I went north.

Olympic Mountain Dreams day 1 - Mount Rainier looms beyond Marrowstone Island

Mount Rainier looms beyond Marrowstone Island

There are three roads that run down Beaver Valley: one on the west wall, one down the center and one at the foot of the east wall.  I was on the middle way, Center Rd. which is the easiest of the three (the west wall is the hilliest fwiw) and the valley protected me from that northerly wind. So I made good time to Chimicum and then to Fort Townsend State Park. This park sits about 5 miles south from PT proper and it is a favorite of mine to camp at. Olympic Mountain Dreams day 1 - At the PourhouseThe Hiker/Biker site is a bit away from the rest of the campground and is basically a clearing in the woods. Of the half-dozen plus times I’ve camped there only once has there been another touron there.  Once!  It is about a mile from the Olympic Discovery Trail so you can easily ride into PT which after setting up I did. I had dinner at a very busy (and just okay) Thai joint and then retired to the Pourhouse for an after dinner pint.

As I rode back to the campground, the sun had set and a light purple glow lit up the Cascade mountains far to the east.  A truly lovely evening.  It was dark in my wooded campsite when I arrived, but I only had to lock up my bicycle and retire to my tent for the evening.  I was happy to be here.

Photos from this day: Olympic Mountain Dreams day 1
All photos from this tour: Olympic Mountain Dreams

Posted from Port Townsend, Washington, United States.

Coastal Contemplations Index

Tuesday, June 21st, 2016
Coast Tour 2016 day 12 - yrs trly at Heceta Head Lighthouse

yr humble narrator at Heceta Head Lighthouse

Coastal Contemplations index
In June 2016 I spent two weeks touring on the Pacific Coast.  A leisurely tour, the emphasize was on the scenery, the environments and contemplation.  As usual I blogged the tour here as it went on the links of which I have collected here. Additionally I took over a thousand photos on this tour and a selection of these from each day have been uploaded to Flickr.  Links to each days photos are included here along with each days report.

Washington
day 1: Seattle to Twanoh State Park – report, pictures
day 2: Twanoh State Park to Lake Sylvia State Park – report, pictures
day 3: Lake Sylvia State Park to Cape Disappointment State Park – reportpictures

Oregon
day 4: Cape Disappointment State Park, WA to Astoria, OR – reportpictures
day 5: Astoria to Nehalem Bay State Park- reportpictures
day 6: Nehalem Bay State Park – reportpictures
day 7: Nehalem Bay State Park to Cape Lookout State Park – reportpictures
day 8: Cape Lookout State Park – reportpictures
day 9: Cape Lookout State Park to Beverly Beach State Park – reportpictures
day 10: Beverly Beach State Park – reportpictures
day 11: Beverly Beach State Park to Beachside State Park – reportpictures
day 12: Beachside State Park to Umpqua Lighthouse State Park – reportpictures
day 13: Umpqua Lighthouse State Park to Honeyman State Park – reportpictures
day 14: Umpqua Lighthouse State Park to Eugene – reportpictures
day 15: Eugene, OR to Seattle, WA  – reportpictures

Tour photo album on Flickr: Coastal Contemplations

Coastal Contemplations day 15

Monday, June 20th, 2016
Amtrak Cascade train captured on a stop in Portland

Amtrak Cascade train captured on a stop in Portland

in beads of dew
one by one
my home village
-Issa

 

all things must pass
I made one last stop in The Whit at the New Day Bakery – which was great – before I made my way to the Amtrak Station. This being the beginning of the Amtrak Cascades route the train was ready and waiting for me. I pulled off my bicycle bags and helped the porter left it into the baggage car. I found a seat with a table where I would spend the next seven hours.

amidst blue skies
clouds obscure The Mountain —
traveling northwards
It was a fine day with cloud strewn skies and plenty to watch as the train made its way north: Mount Hood, Mount Adams, Mount Saint Helens and finally Mount Rainier.  When I finally got off the train and reattached my bags it was late afternoon. It felt good to do even the short ride home after seven hours on the train.  Back home I unloaded the bicycle, put everything way, cleaned up and cooked some dinner. As the sun set over the city long spine-like clouds lit up with dark purples, reds and oranges. Tomorrow is the first day of summer.
the sinking sun
lights clouds on fire —
last day of spring

Photos on Flickr: todayall days

Posted from Seattle, Washington, United States.

Coastal Contemplations day 5

Friday, June 10th, 2016
Seastack on the Oregon Coast

Seastack on the Oregon Coast

watching the downpour
under a temple
bell

-Issa

sometimes it pours
I lingered in Astoria having breakfast out, relishing supplies, finishing my coffee. The skids were cloudy, but streaked with blue and it was warm when the sun worked its way through the cracks.  I made my way out of town the same way I came in, following the waterfront trail.  At the Astoria Bridge the route makes a nice gentle climb into the hills above the downtown. The hills behind Astoria is the classic Astoria, old houses perched on the edge of the hill, trees, winding roads. Great route through here.

Old pair below the Astoria Bridge

Away from Astoria now the route cut a diagonal across farmland then into forested hills. Once again a great bit of riding, though plenty of reminders that Oregon too has its share of clearcuts.  It began to sprinkle and sensing this would last I pulled off under a tree and put on rain gear. It became pretty steady showers for a time but then faded away and the sun was out again. There was plenty of ups and downs in this route but it followed a creek most of the way and was in the woods and I enjoyed the break for the traffic. All too soon with a long cold descent I was back on 101 at Seaside.

blue cracks in the clouds
a sudden shower —
late spring

Now it was mostly 101 along the coast for the rest of the day. There was a brief jaunt down to Cannon Beach where I, along with the throngs of tourists, got my first solid sighting of the Oregon Coast. Even on this grey day plenty of people were frolicking on the sandy beaches.  The weather was odd though – wind out of the southwest which is very unusual and the clouds further away looked much darker. I sensed a storm coming on. So I soon returned to road.

driving winds, stinging rains
head down, keep on moving

This section of the coast is particularly scenic as the road is right on the edge and it ascends on big rocky outcropping a so you can really look out into the distance. Seastacks stud the coastline adding their mysterious facade to the beaches and waters.  The winds though picked up and then the rains began. It would go from sprinkles to a heavy downpour sometimes with driving headwinds. Nothing I could do but press on. There is a good long climb before Manzanita and then a long descent which is particularly soaking and at last I reached the turnoff for Nehalem Bay State Park.

water dripping off
the thin stand of trees
sparkles in the setting sun

In thin drizzle now, I set up my tent and cooked dinner. Never was I so happy for Oregon State Parks free showers.  As I cleaned up after dinner the clouds broke up and the sun shone through. The setting sun painted the scattered clouds brilliant pinks and purples.

beyond the grey clouds
white clouds
looming in the distance
black clouds

Photos on Flickr: todayall days

Posted from Rockaway Beach, Oregon, United States.

Coastal Contemplations day 4

Thursday, June 9th, 2016
Astoria Bridge on the Columbia River

Astoria Bridge on the Columbia River

the ants’ road
from peaks of clouds
to here

-Issa

a short ride over a long bridge

A grey morning, cooler and every so often brief periods of sprinkles. Today I’d cross the Astoria Bridge to OR and I decided that I would stay the night in Astoria.  I haven’t really spent much time in that town though I’ve been through several times. So with a short ride ahead I was able to linger at Cape Disappointment State Park.  I rode up to the Lewis and Clark Interpretative Center and hiked out to the Lighthouse.  The fishing fleet was out and bet when the slate grey skies and water there would be black spouts of diesel exhaust.

Cape Disappointment Lighthouse

Cape Disappointment Lighthouse

After noon I decided to make my way to Astoria.  You descend from the park hugging the coast into Illwaco. Then it’s a stretch on 101 through farmland and wetlands. Back on the coast the hwy is right on the shore of the Columbia.  Soon the bridge looms large.  The last time I crossed the bridge there was a good storm and it wasn’t much fun. This time just a pretty miles crosswind. There is a very narrow shoulder which has a lot of debris in it and an inordinate amount of dead birds.  There was also some work being done on the bridge and there was a flagged on the climb out. They had me go last and while I enjoyed the traffic free stretch it was a stiff climb that I felt pressured to sprint up.

as I put on my coat
the sun comes out —
late spring

Descending from the heights of the bridge I was now in Astoria.  It is the beginning of “Fleet Week” and there were sailors in their dress whites all over town. Apparently they will be here in force this weekend.  But you’d see little groups of them going in and out of all the bars and shops. I wandered around town before retiring to the Norblad Hotel And Hostel.

grey skies meet
at grey waters…
scattered drops of rain

Photos on Flickr: todayall days

Posted from Astoria, Oregon, United States.

Coastal Contemplations day 3

Wednesday, June 8th, 2016
Lake Sylvia

Lake Sylvia

stillness—
in the depths of the lake
billowing clouds

-Issa

wind and water
The day dawned grey and cool – a relief after the heat of the last few days. It would break up as the day progressed, leading to blue skies streaked with trails of clouds.  I had many miles to ride this day almost all of it on the highways.  I worked my way up long hills and rolled down the other side, through trees and clearcuts under clearing skies.

in the clearcuts
a profusion of purple flowers

The wind was coming off the coast but not too strong in the morning and diffused by the trees and hills.  The mornings are always so pleasant, which feels like a secret.  With a long descent I came to the logging town of Raymond which I mostly skirted on the Wiliapia Hills trail.

Mudflat outside of Raymond

Outside of Raymond

Now Google Maps took me off hwy 101 onto a road that I assumed cut off a a corner of the coast route.  As I passed this group of people going downhill I thought I heard them yelling at me.  But I wasn’t sure so kept moving. Then the pavement ended. What trouble has Google Maps gotten me in to now?  Well I dig riding gravel roads so I pressed on.  Shortly a guy rides up to me on an ATV and says that I don’t want to go this way. “You’ll lose a couple of tires ” he said. “It’s about 10 miles all up and down the terrain worse than this. You’re welcome  to try it” he said. Well this is what the NFE is for, so I pressed on. It was definitely rough at spots but really I’ve been on a lot worse forest roads. It was actually really nice to be able to practice some fully loaded touring on gravel roads.  This ended up being my favorite section of riding on this day: In the woods, nice and cool, one car the whole time.  All too soon I descended out of the woods into an estuary and climbed up to 101.

harried by crows
a hawk flies
right next to me

Now it was just 101 to Cape Disappointment.  Rolling Hills, strong wind off the coast which was sometimes with me sometimes against me as I rode around inlets and over streams.  It was clouding up and cooling down a bit. At one point I heard a single clap of thunder and felt a few sprinkles.  I was tiring now and could feel the effect of the miles, but as I approached Long Beach I got a second wind.

Pacific Coast

First sighting of the Pacific Coast

The route took me to the beach at Seaview and onto the Discovery Trail. Now I’d ridden on this trail last time I was hear but this section was new. It ran in the sea grass right along the beach all the way to Beards Hollow and then on to North Head Lighthouse. Well this is basically a trail to the park and when it turned to North Head I returned to the road and it was just a couple of Ks to Cape Disappointment State Park. I was happy to be here.

grey morning
blue afternoon
grey evening

Photos on Flickr: todayall days

Posted from Ilwaco, Washington, United States.

Coastal Contemplations day 2

Tuesday, June 7th, 2016
Hood Canal at dawn

Hood Canal at dawn

dawn’s glow
even more of a wonder…
willow tree

-Issa

waiting to exhale

I woke at dawn and looking out the door of my tent saw the eastern colors reflecting off the canal and touching the clouds with color. A deep contentment filled me and I sat in for long moments in reflecton.

soft colors of dawn
reflected on still waters
a fish leaps

I was up early so even with my usual lingering in camp I was on the road earlier than normal. It was already over 70 degrees (f) and the day was just getting started. I had to backtrack a bit and it was just so lovely riding along the canal in this still morning. Less traffic, less sounds, the waters calm, the light still that magic glow of the sun not being directly overhead.

Olympic Mountains beyond Hood Canal

Olympic Mountains beyond Hood Canal

Turning south on Trails Rd.  I was back on route. And it began with a seriously steep climb.  Right into the woods though and the coolness of the air was very welcome. Thus continued as I wound around Lake Mason and it was during this part of the ride that it happened.  Every tour, usually on day two, I just let out this deep exhalation and let everything else go. It is just touring now. This is the moment that brings me back to touring.

a moment
dancing with butterflies —
alone again

The route went through Shelton where I acquired lunch and dinner supplies and then it climbed up onto this ridge and every so gently descended all the way to sea level. But it was hot now and out of the trees and a wind picked up strengthening as I approached the coast.  I was happy to finally reach Lake Sylvia State Park, even with the strap climb up!  There are a pair of hiker/biker sites here and one was occupied. I took the other and had a pleasant evening on the lake.

lost in frog song —
late spring

Photos on Flickr: todayall days

Posted from Montesano, Washington, United States.