Beverly Beach State Park

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Coastal Contemplations day 11

Thursday, June 16th, 2016
Yaquina Head Lighthouse

Yaquina Head Lighthouse

plum blossoms—
in my account book
I enter “cash for sake”

-Issa

beach to beach
It rained all night only ceasing upon the dawn.  So it was a damp morning of packing as I broke camp and headed south.  A scant distance Down 101 I came to Newport and the turnoff to Yaquina Head Lighthouse.  A classic lightouse right at the end of the headlands overlooking the dramatic and rocky coast. There were vast amounts of birds nesting on the rocks and a young bald eagle was also sitting there digesting one of those birds.

Oregon Coast at Yaquina Bay

Oregon Coast at Yaquina Bay

From the headlands the route mostly winds around Newport skipping 101 and the edge city there.  But I had to brave that edge city to find a laundromat and do my washing.  By the time I had taken care of the necessities it was past noon so I also had lunch in Newport.  Needless to say I left town pretty late in the afternoon,  However one of the glories of the OR Coast is that there are campgrounds every few miles and with little need to make miles I only rode a couple of hours after lunch,

Sunset at Wakonda Beach

Sunset at Wakonda Beach

I arrived at Beachside State Park which is in a little strip of trees right between the beach and 101.  The Hiker/Biker site is right near the entrance in a little stand of trees.  A path through those trees led to an unofficial beach access point.  My own private beach.  The clouds were dramatic, torn up like sea foam.  In the distance was a massive cloud with tendrils reaching down to the ocean as it shed rain.  That I imagine would make landfall in a couple of hours.  The wrack of clouds made for a particularly dramatic sunset, reflected in the wet beach.

paying no mind to the
surf and the traffic —
a lone frog sings

Photos on Flickr: todayall days

Posted from Waldport, Oregon, United States.

Coastal Contemplations day 10

Wednesday, June 15th, 2016
Devils Punchbowl and Otter Rock

Devils Punchbowl and Otter Rock

low tide
in a soft, soft rain…
darkness coming

-Issa

between showers
This was another day predicted to be filled with a series of fronts moving through so I decided to stay at Bevery Beach Campground and explore the coast. Considering that I’d moved along this section of the coast pretty fast yesterday Ithis would give me a chance to check out what I missed. As I left 101 to Otter Crest the clouds that had been threatening rolled in and the rain began to come down. As I turned down the road to the Devils Punchbowl the skies opened up and fell upon me. It shortly turned to hail. Happily it was only a couple of blocks to the State Park where I took refuge at the bathroom.

Storm rolling in at Beverly Beach

Storm rolling in at Beverly Beach

The downpour only lasted about 15 minutes and then the front had moved by and the sun would come out. This would be the pattern most of this day. The Devils Punchbowl is a bowl shaped opening in the coastal rocks with gaps to the ocean. The continous action of the surf shoots into these opening creating a churning tidal Punchbowl. The tide wasn’t super high but it was pretty neat.  The views of the coast here and along the other lookouts at Otter Crest were just completely stunning.

Oregon Coast at Depoe Bay

Oregon Coast at Depoe Bay

I rode into Depoe Bay and had lunch and acquired some essential supplies.  During lunch there was another downpour which again really came down for fifteen minutes or so and then moved on. I looked around the shops in town but there was nothing that struck my fancy (or I could carry). So I rode a bit more north to Boiler Bay which I skipped yesterday. Another great overlook of the sea eaten coastline.  Then it was just making my way south again, taking my time along Otter Crest Loop.

between rain showers
jagged gaps of blue

Photos on Flickr: todayall days

Posted from Newport, Oregon, United States.

Coastal Contemplations day 9

Tuesday, June 14th, 2016
Rock off of Cape Kiwanda

Rock off of Cape Kiwanda

today too, today too
living in mist…
little house

-issa

a long day’s journey into…evening
I awoke to the sound of drizzle pitter pattering on my tent.  Now the sound of rain on the tent is an experience not to be missed, but I did intend to pack up and leave Cape Lookout today.  It fell off after a spell and I jumped out and put everything I way.  Then I moved to the campgrounds covered pavilion where I made breakfast as the rain really came down. But it didn’t last and my weather app said it would be mostly just overcast the rest of the day.

looking through rain
at white tipped waves

Heading south now on the Three Capes Route I found that just past the State Park was the most devastating clearcut I’ve seen on this tour.  What was once a beautiful corridor of trees is now cut short on one side and just a barren, brutalized hill.  Recent enough too that wildflowers or undergrowth had yet to move in.  As always when I’m shocked by clearcuts I have to ask myself, “what am I doing to reduce my consumption of wood products?” If there was no demand there’d be no clearcuts.

now with homeless eyes
I see it…
blossoming spring

-Issa

and following after Issa:

empty hills
empty mind
look! look!

Just past the clearcut is the longest climb of the Oregon Coast. While never very steep it climbs over 800′; almost twice that as the climb to Cape Mears I did yesterday. Of course compared to virtually any mountain pass it is just a bump, but for the coast it is a climb.  The drizzle returned as I mde my ascent and I donned rain gear before the descent.  But by the time I’d wound my way back to the coast at the long sandy beaches at Cape Kiwanda (the third Cape!) it had cleared up and off went the rain gear.

On Old Scenic 101

On Old Scenic 101

I followed the beaches for a while, stopping for lunch in Pacific City.  The route then turned inland and left 101 on one of my favorite bits of riding: Old Scenic 101.  A ten mile strench, it actually adds miles from the more direct 101, but it is in old trees, along a stream and mostly forestland.  Not much traffic and only at the northern end are there houses, which mostly seem to be old school hippies.

following the lively stream
into mossy trees —
easy to forget myself

But back on the main roads I find the character of 101 had really changed.  A lot more traffic and two lanes as I came into Lincoln City. The route take you on the east side of Devils Lake to avoid Lincoln City, but the road was closed for construction. So I continued on 101 through town. You can see why it avoids it – busy, the shoulder goes away and there is a solid mile or two of edge city followed by a tourist trap section of cotton candy, bead shops and other tat.  Just past this was the turnoff to Devils Lake Campground where I was making for this day. It turned out to be a scant block from 101 and the hiker/biker section was literally on a residential street fully open to houses next door. Though it was getting on I decided to press on to the next campground.

Storm rolling in at Boiler Bay

Storm rolling in at Boiler Bay

Once fully outside of Lincoln City environs there is one of the absolute best sections of the coast.  From Boiler Bay to Newport the coast is all wave carved rocks and weather eaten bluffs.  The biking route is as good as it gets too as while 101 climbs a steep bluff, the OR Coast Bicycle Route takes Otter Crest Loop, a narrow road with only one way traffic and a bicycle lane.  This hugs the edge of the bluff and the views into Depoe Bay, Cape Foulweather and Yaquina Head are just stunning.  There was clearly rain coming in but I only felt a few sprinkles on this bit.  Soon enough the road descended back to open sandy beaches where Beaverly Beach State Park is and I would camp this evening. Within a couple hours of my arrival the rain put in an appearance.

lost in the sound
of passing cars —
calm ocean swells

Photos on Flickr: todayall days

Posted from Newport, Oregon, United States.